Fittingly located at the bottom of Mermaid street, The Ship Inn dates back to 1592 when it was used as a warehouse for impounding smuggled goods. This is a place that proves that smart surroundings aren’t a pre-requisite for good food. Modern pop art and boards’ heads are dotted about the rooms, fiary lights are draped everywhere and if you sit on one of the battered sofas, don’t be alarmed if you end up at a quirky angle or even falling through. The quality of the food then, comes as a surprise. Ingredients are well-sourced and preparation is careful. The result: flavoursome, rustic dishes that arrive in generous portions – maybe baked cod or soy-braised pork belly. Compact bedrooms display similarly wacky wallpapers and painted floors.